Thursday, 9 July 2009

तस्वीरनामा : कश्मीर

खूबसूरती ---चाहे जिस रंग या फॉर्म में हो शोखी और बेवफाई उसकी पुरानी आदतें रहीं हैं !साबुन की बट्टी की मानिंद हाथ से बस फिसलने को मचलती है ! कश्मीर की भी यही दास्ताँ है , बाक़ी उसके हाल पे जितना चाहे रोइए , सच इतना ही है हिन्दी के एक शायर हुए हैं जनाब बाल कृष्ण शर्मा 'नवीन' , आप फरमाते हैं ,'' जिसके गट्टे में ताक़त है , है उसीकी वसुंधरा" सो जिन जाँ-निसारों ने कश्मीर संभालरखा है उनको सौ बार सलाम !
मैं वहां हफ्ता भर रहा और मैंने शहर की लोकल बसों में ही सफ़र किया . गली कूचों में भी खूब घूमा . अनंतनाग को वहां के लोकल बस कंडक्टर "इस्लामाबाद -इस्लामाबाद" पुकार कर सवारियां बुला रहे थे और बीच बीच में सुरक्षा बलों को चिढ़ाते हुए आपस में आँख मार रहे थे . देशद्रोह की बू को श्री नगर में सहज ही महसूस किया जा सकता था . ब्लोगिंग से उस वक़्त वास्ता न था वर्ना उन पोस्टर्स की तस्वीरें भी लाता जिन पर मारे गए आतंकवादियों की तस्वीरें शहीद शीर्षक से छपी थीं और उन्हें दफनाने की जगह को शहीदी कब्रिस्तान नाम दिया गया था . लोकल केबल पर पसंदीदा गानों के प्रोग्राम के बीच में एंकर, सड़क पे टहलते हुए नौजवानों की पसंद की बाबत पूछता था तो लड़के लड़कियां पसंदीदा गायकों और फिल्म स्टारों में हिन्दुस्तानी स्टार्स का ज़िक्र करते थे मगर एक ही सांस में अपनी पसंदीदा क्रिकेट टीम पाकिस्तान बताते थे . जब हम हवाई अड्डे से चेक आउट हो रहे थे तो ये भी पता न था की जाना कहाँ है . चूंकि उन दिनों मैं एक न्यूज़ एजेन्सी के कश्मीर सेंट्रिक प्रोग्राम के लिए उर्दू वी. ओ. करता था सो एडिटर ने भरोसा दिया था की वो मुझे वहां के कोरेस्पोंडेंट का नंबर दे देगा जो मेरे रहने का इंतजाम कर देगा मगर आधे घंटे तक लगातार ट्राई के बाद भी वो जनाब फोन नहीं उठा रहे थे. बाद में पता चला की वो ब्लास्ट की कवरेज में मसरूफ थे. बहरहाल , चेक आउट होते ही एक साहब हमारे पास आये और बोले की आपकी खिदमत में मेह्क्माये सय्याहत की जानिब से सरकारी बस फराहम कराइ गयी है ,आप चाहें तो खिदमत का मौका दे सकते हैं . ज़िन्दगी में ये पहला और आखरी मौका था जब मैंने किसी सरकारी बस के ड्राइवर को इस अदब से बोलते देखा . उस शख्स की बात में कुछ ऐसा भरोसा था की अपने हफ्ते भर के प्रवास में मैंने कभी टैक्सी नहीं पकडी . बसों में जवान लड़के लडकियां वैसे ही हाथ थामे और आपस में कंधे पे सर टिकाये दिखे जैसे किसी भी मेट्रो सिटी में . आम तौर पे लड़कियों ने सर को ढक रखा था ,अलबत्ता बुर्के पे ज़ियादा जोर न था . आलूदगी याने प्रदूषण श्री नगर शहर के लिए एक बड़ा सर दर्द बना हुआ था . झेलम को लाल चौक के पास बहते देख मैंने उसे कोई नाला ही समझा मगर जब पता चला की यही वो नदी है जिसके किनारे बहुत से यादगार गीत फिल्माए गए हैं तो बड़ी निराशा हुई . बहरहाल शहर से बाहर नदी की हालत ठीक लग रही थी . एक बार यूं भी हुआ की हम डल झील के लिए निकले मगर जा पहुंचे कहीं आगे जहाँ बाज़ार बंद था और सी. आर. पी. वाले गश्त लगा रहे थे , जब हमने उनसे पूछा तो बोले की भय्या हम तो आज ही मध्य प्रदेश से यहाँ आये हैं ,हमें खुद यहाँ का अता पता नहीं है . दरअसल इस अर्ध सैनिक बल की जो छवि मीडिया बना रहा है उसके उलट हमें वो खुद बड़े लाचार से लगे . हब्बा कादल ,रैना बाड़ी जैसे इलाकों में लोकल बाशिंदे जान बूझ कर ऐसा दिखावा करते थे मानो हिंदी न समझते हों , ऐसे में सरदार भी बड़े काम आये . चाहे लोकल हों या जम्मू कश्मीर पुलिस के सिखों से ही हम बात करने को मानो मजबूर थे . ये बात मैं सिर्फ पुराने शहर के अंदरूनी इलाके के बारे में कहता हूँ . चूंकि उस वक़्त ब्लोगिंग का ये मंच मेरे पास न था सो तस्वीरें भी बस पर्सनल एंगल से ली गयी हैं सो आप मेरी फोटू कुछ ज़ियादा आ जाने से बोर न हों.2006में अपने बड़े भाई साहब के साथ कश्मीर जाना हुआ । ब्लोग्गिंग का तब रोगलगा न था वरना और तसवीरें लाता । बहरहाल ये सभी फोटू हमने फ़िल्म रोल वाले याशिका कैमरे से लिए हैं औरहमारे प्रिय मित्र इरफान की कलाकारी के ज़रिये आप तक पहुँच रहे हैं । अभी कुछ और भी हैं गर ये पसंद आए तोउन्हें भी ज़ुरूर लगायेंगे साहेब। श्रीनगर शहर उतना ही गन्दा है जितना के हो सकता है सो ज़ियादा ध्यान कुदरतीनज़ारों को क़ैद करने पे दिया गया है !
उड़ान से पहले श्रीनगर : ३.३० p.m. पहलगाम रोड टू पहलगाम पहलगाम यानी चरवाहों का गाँव वो कौन थी ? मैं और मेरी तन्हाई गुलमर्ग की ओर भाईसाहेब फिसला-फिसली मौसम का जायज़ा goldflake moments बर्फ गाडियाँ १२विन् सदी की एक शिला फौजी स्टैंड गुलमर्ग में एक उजाड़ चर्च डल पुराना गिरजा: श्री नगर डल के किनारे एक ' डल आदमी ' अल सुबह: डल अकेला पेड़ मैं वापस आऊँगा तुझसे ये वादा मेरा

111 comments:

  1. WoW WoW WoW !!!

    apki post par ke to mujhe man kar raha hai ki bas abhi Kashmir ki liye nikal jau...behtrenn post...

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  2. Shaheedo ko apna salam...

    gandgi to jaise hindustaan ka ek hissa hi ban gayi hai...per fir bhi thora bahut jo bacha hai use yadi bacha liya gaya to shayad halat aur zyada khraab na ho...

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  3. भाई बडा सधा हुआ लिखा है, आपकी तस्वीरो से पुन: कश्मीर दर्शन का सौभाग्य मिला. वाकई ये डल का किनारा पहले इतना डल नही हुआ करता था. बहुत रंगीन था वो किनारा.

    सच पूछे तो पुन: जाने की तमन्ना है पर ये वहां के रोज के किटकिटवाडे के बीच अब उम्र इजाजत नही देती.

    बहुत पसंद आया आपका यह आलेख. शुभकामनाएं.

    रामराम.

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  4. बेहतरीन वृतांत..तस्वीरें देखकर आनन्द आ गया, कब हो आये?

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  5. अजी कश्मीर जाना जरुरी थोड़े ही है. पहाडी लोग वैसे तो सीधे साधे ही होते हैं, तो ये लोग इतने टेढ़े क्यों हैं? बस तो जी हम भी जब जायेंगे तो श्रीनगर बिलकुल नहीं जायेंगे. चुपचाप आगे निकल जायेंगे. पक्का वादा.

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  6. वादी में अखरोट और बादाम के साथ पराये झंडे भी उगते हैं

    वो कौन थी... मैं तो आपसे ही पूछने वाला था और गोल्डफ्लेक मोमेंट ने मुझे अपने नब्बे के आस पास से दो हज़ार पांच तक के वे पुरसुकून दिन याद दिला दिए जो विल्स नेवी कट के सहारे बीते थे या फिर पैंतीस तक की उम्र ही कुछ बेफिक्री लिए होती होगी.

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  7. Dear sameer ji it has been more than two years now.
    Dear Neeraj all of them are certainly not crooked ,but many of them in the valley are like that yes!
    Thanks a lot my dear Kishore ji, Tau ji , Premlata ji and Vineeta ji for ur concern and appreciation.

    ReplyDelete
  8. बालकृष्ण शर्मा नवीन जी को सलाम,गट्टे मे ताक़त वालों को सलाम,कश्मीर को सलाम्।कश्मिरियों को सलाम,उसकी खूबसूरती को सलाम,वो कौन थी को सलाम,आपको सलाम,आपकी कलम को सलाम बस गोल्ड्फ़्लेक को छोडकर सब को सलाम,दरअसल अपुन को सांस ला प्राब्लम हैं ना मुनीश भाई।बहुत बढिया पोस्ट,सच पढते और तस्वीर देखते ही उड़कर वंहा पहुंचने का दिल कर रहा है।

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  9. बहुत सुंदर. गोल्डफ्लेक बैस्ट ब्रैंड है :-)

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  10. यात्रा वृत्तान्त के लिए जो रोचकता और साफगोई की दरकार है वह आपके ब्लॉग से पूरी हो रही है। लीक से हटकर और अनजानेपन से बेखौफ़ होकर आपने मौके पर जाकर जो सच्ची जानकारी दी तो मज़ा आ गया। इस आवारगी के किस्सों को कलमबंद भी करदें ताकि वो हमेशा के लिए जिन्दा रहें। वैसे आपके तरकश में बहुत से तीर बाकी हैं, ये तो सिर्फ़ एक छोटा सा ज़लवा है, मैं तो ऐसा ही मानता हूँ। बहुत ख़ूब, जबरदस्त ....................

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  11. Dear Anil ji,Kaajal ji and Nanak bhai thnx for ur concern and warmth !

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  12. चित्रों से कहीं ज्यादा रोचक आपका विवरण रहा..बेबाक और बिना लाग लपेट के...

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  13. Come on Manish ,these pictures are taken with very cheap, ordinary B'day
    camera and so they deserve all the praise!

    ReplyDelete
  14. Your post takes me 33 years back, when I visited Kashmir just after my MA final exams.There was no terrorism then; but the local people always introduced me as 'Syed saheb' from India. This surprised me very much and when I asked them about the country they belonged to, the answer was invariably Kashmir. I found the University Campus so beautiful that I even considered applying there for a job but immediately dismissed the idea after coming across such sentiments. It was there that I realised the 'importance' of being a Syed, as people much older than me gave me a lot of respect while doing 'musafaha'(shaking hands).I suddenly recalled the words of my Hindi teacher, Mr.Mishra,in school when he said " Syeds among Muslims are like the Brahmins among Hindus". That was pre-Mandal,when awareness of caste was not so high.And, I nearly fell into the raging river in Pahalgam, which, had it happened, would,if nothing else,have deprived Ashok Pandey of his love for John Donne!
    I also liked your earlier post on the ghud-sawaar firangan.Talking about Bartaanvi khawatein, or any khawatein for that matter, is any day better than talking about 377!

    This longish comment because I like your blog and shall put it on my blog list.And yes, I gave up smoking 5 years back, but enjoyed the gold flake photograph.

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  15. Thanx for this rare honour bestowed upon my blog sir . Thnx for sharing ur experiences here.Pls. come again.

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